Karen Marts Nature Specialist on Hilton Head Island, South Carolina
- Karen Marts
- Aug 26, 2019
- 11 min read
As a kid growing up in New Jersey, I was always interested in birds. In 9th grade I rescued a baby robin, and helped raise it at Raccoon Ridge Bird Observatory. At the end of the summer I was able to band its leg and release it to the wild. Our family moved to mountainous Nevada where we hiked and skied, then to a farm in Louisiana where we raised pigs and chickens. After graduating college, I moved to the beaches of Pensacola, Florida. I moved to Hilton Head Island 32 years ago. In 1990 I adopted a Yellow-Crowned Amazon Parrot named Boo. He was my pet for 20 years. When he passed away at age 27, I decided to give back to the bird community. I volunteered at The Oasis Sanctuary in Arizona, which at the time cared for over 800 exotic birds from macaws to cockatoos. I joined World Parrot Trust to be more globally aware of the parrot species...one-third is of threatened status. Eight years ago I volunteered at Feathered Friends Forever Rescue & Sanctuary in Georgia, currently the largest parrot shelter in the United States. I adopted a Panama Amazon Parrot named Freedom, who lived in an outdoor aviary, and who was part of 1,200 rescue birds. The last 10 years I've been studying wild birds. I read constantly, and have a collection of 350 books on birds. Birds and Blooms Magazine is an easy and informative way to stay abreast of migratory birds. We are so fortunate to live on a sub-tropical island that attracts a broad variety of species. I credit the Coastal Discovery Museum for helping me advance my birding techniques in the field. I have published over 130 wildlife photographs with Untamed Lowcountry, an online blog affiliated with The Island Packet. I was a regular contributor to Birding Friends Yahoo Group, with bird blogs, photos, and video clips.
I am currently a volunteer for The Sea Pines Bluebird Project, which provides 60 nest boxes for Eastern Bluebirds. Over the course of 6 months, I am monitoring 12 Bluebird boxes and recording nest building, egg laying, incubating, and fledging of the young chicks. I just completed my 8th year of the project. It is an honor to work in such close proximity to the little birds. I hope to increase public awareness of Bluebird conservation needs. I am a member of the National Audubon Society, as well as the Hilton Head Island Audubon Society, and attend many lectures sponsored by the local chapter. I have heard lectures on Bald Eagles, Vultures, Birds of Costa Rica, Preparing for the Christmas Bird Count, Birds of Pinckney Island, and Piping Plovers. As an avid birder, I occasionally do day trips to Savannah, Charleston, or Florida, and have tallied up to 66 bird species in one day! I also enjoyed some excellent lectures hosted by The Coastal Discovery Museum, namely Sharks, Loggerhead Turtles, and the American Horseshoe Crab. The latter two included a beach walk. I joined The Friends of the Savannah Coastal Wildlife Refuges. It raises money for 7 national wildlife refuges that span 100 miles of coastline. These refuges are located strategically along the Atlantic Flyway necessary for migratory birds. I was a nature guide for Audubon Newhall Preserve, a trail monitor, and part of the maintenance team for several years.
There are some fantastic summer children's programs at Honey Horn Plantation, and the whole family can partake in the fun. My favorites are Animals of the Low Country, courtesy of Oatland Island Wildlife Center, and Lowcountry Critters “Meet and Greet”, by Joe Maffo of Critter Management. It's a great chance for kids to learn about Barred Owls, armadillos, flying squirrels, and opossum. Oatland Island Wildlife Center is in Savannah, Georgia, and they offer self-guided trail walks to see wolves, cougars, Red Fox, wetland birds, bobcats, deer, birds of prey, wetland birds, and bison. The second class gives children the opportunity to see turtles, non-venomous snakes, alligators, frogs, lizards, and baby birds close-up. After those programs, families can visit The Karen Wertheimer Butterfly Enclosure and see the different stages of a butterfly's lifecycle. Inside the Coastal Discovery Museum tour the kid’s room with nature murals, bird exhibits, and an aquarium with tiny Horseshoe Crabs. Fascinating exhibits are rotated throughout the year. Three extinct birds are on display: the Carolina Parakeet, the only parrot indigenous to the United States; the Passenger Pigeon, once the most prevalent bird in America, and the elusive Ivory-Billed Woodpecker, which became extinct in 1944, yet people claim to have seen the bird in recent years. The museum is located on 68 acres of preserved land, and has some of the oldest buildings on the island. Visitors can walk outdoors and enjoy the beautiful Live Oak trees draped in Spanish moss, open fields of grass, and surrounding salt marshes. Guided history and birding walks, dolphin and nature cruises, and kayaking tours are all available. The Coastal Discovery Museum sponsors the Sea Turtle Protection Project. The program helps protect the Loggerhead Sea Turtle during the nesting season. The turtles can weigh up to 400 pounds and reach a length of 4 feet. The females, which must reach 20-25 years of age to mate, will nest once every 2-4 years, often coming ashore to excavate 4-6 times per season. The Loggerhead Turtle digs a hole with her back feet and deposits approximately 120 eggs. Every nest along the 12 miles of pristine beach is monitored closely. Statistics show that only 1 out of 10,000 nestlings survive. Visitors can do their part to help these amazing reptiles by turning lights out at night that shine toward the beach, May 1 through October 31. Since turtle hatchlings emerge from the nest at night, they orient themselves toward the brightest light and head to the sea. Visible lights from buildings or even flashlights can disorient them and cause them to head toward land.
The Sea Pines Nature Preserve was once inhabited by nomadic Indians 4,000 years ago. They hunted and gathered shells in the salt marshes that are fresh water wetlands today. The Sea Pines Indian Shell Ring is the site of the village. Since the 1700’s, the land was used for growing rice, indigo, and cotton. It was then utilized for hunting and harvesting timber. In 1959, the Fraser family, the founders of Sea Pines Plantation, established a tract of land for a preserve, currently with 605 acres dedicated for wildlife habitat and outdoor recreation. Walking trails were developed in the early 70’s which followed ante-bellum rice dikes, built by hand in 1840, and old logging trails from the 1950’s. Bridal paths, wetland boardwalks with observation decks, and fishing docks have been added. There are 4 lakes, Joe, Thomas, Mary, and Chapin, which offer fresh-water fishing and birding. In the spring and summer, Rookery Point at Lake Mary has a colony of nesting wading birds such as Great Egrets, Snowy Egrets, Great Blue Herons, and White Ibis. It is not uncommon to see an Osprey fly overhead and suddenly swoop down to catch a fish in its talons. Fish Island Trail was constructed to allow motorists a way to drive to the lakes for a cook-out. The colorful Warner W. Plahs Wildflower Field is nearby, featuring native flora. Wetlands known as Boggy Gut are used for an innovative filtration system that was built for advanced water treatment. Shallow water fills the wetlands and little ponds, providing turtles, frogs, and other reptiles a lush habitat. Tall cattails, grasses, and other marsh vegetation help purify the water. Walking through the pine needle laden forest there is a sense of going back in time…even in the heat of day, the tall trees offer visitors welcomed shade. The Sea Pines Nature Preserve is an Important Bird Area. It is part of a global network of places recognized for their outstanding value to bird conservation. Early into the trek, birders will be rewarded with glimpses of Yellow-Crowned Night Herons, Anhingas, Pileated Woodpeckers, Barred Owls, Cardinals, Blue Jays, Little Blue Herons, Belted Kingfishers, and Prothonotary Warblers. Looking across the lagoon to residential neighborhood backyards, it is an everyday occurrence to see a mother alligator with several young lying on the banks. A Double-Crested Cormorant or Green Heron will often stand a few feet away, very nonchalantly.
Sea Pines Plantation offers 17 miles of paved bicycle pathways that wind through the woods, providing yet another opportunity to watch wildlife. Stop at the numerous lagoons to see large alligators, turtles, and little ducks like Buffleheads, Hooded Mergansers, and Wood Ducks. Spotted Sandpipers teeter and nod their way around the shallows. Be aware that it is illegal to feed or harass the alligators…it is best to watch from afar. Two boat marinas, located at Harbour Town and South Beach, offer plenty of choices for nature cruises and fishing. Even if you are staying outside the gates of Sea Pines Plantation, it is well worth the $6 gate fee to visit The Sea Pines Forest Preserve. It is truly a remarkable example of conservation.
Just over the bridge from Hilton Head Island lies Pinckney Island National Wildlife Refuge, established in 1975. It is comprised of 4,053 acres of saltwater marsh, Maritime forest, brushland, fallow fields, and freshwater ponds. Saltwater kayaking is a great way to circumnavigate Pinckney Island, Corn Island, Big and Little Harry Islands, and Buzzard Island. Over 40 miles of trails can be explored by biking or hiking. Wildlife photography opportunities are abundant in this pristine preserve. The refuge is home to a large variety of mammals including squirrels, raccoon, deer, rabbits, and coyote. It is also a sanctuary for waterfowl, shorebirds, wading birds, songbirds, and raptors, with over 200 species spotted in the last 20 years. Although fresh water fishing is prohibited, saltwater and shell fishing are permitted in the waters that are adjacent to the refuge. Restroom facilities and shelter are not available. It is recommended to carry a backpack with your own supply of water, snacks, binoculars, camera, and bird guide. Maintained by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, the preserve is open sunrise to sunset. A gravel road provides easy access to the various ponds. Additional grass trails branch off for quiet exploration.
Surprisingly, the parking area has a thick canopy of trees that will reveal a number of birds such as Cardinals, Blue Jays, Bluebirds, Red-bellied Woodpeckers, Red-headed Woodpeckers, Yellow-rumped Warblers, Yellow-throated Warblers, Summer Tanagers, Brown-headed Cowbirds, and Mourning Doves. Depending on your fitness level, the first pond can be reached between 15-20 minutes. There are 2 long stretches of salt marsh along the road where the tide rises twice a day, flowing through the wetlands. Marsh Periwinkle Snails crawl down the stems of salt tolerant plants called Smooth Cordgrass, while Eastern Oysters expel water from their shells. Armies of fiddler crabs scurry across the flat mud surface with the males waving one large claw. Crabs, clams, mussels, and insects attract long-legged wading birds that use their long bills for probing the mud. An unusual mix of trees surround the open salt pan…Live Oaks, Palmetto Palms, Loblolly Pines, and tall Junipers. Dense underbrush provides nesting habitat, as well as escape from predators. Bird levels begin to increase dramatically with large concentrations of White Ibis, Wood Storks, and Whimbrels moving through the low grasses in the salt marsh. Walking further into the reserve, Bufflehead Ducks, Hooded Mergansers, and Laughing Gulls can be seen as the water deepens. Ibis Pond is a rookery, which is a colony of breeding, nesting, and roosting wading birds. A moat of water surrounds the island of trees, which protects the birds from predators such as raccoons and giant reptiles that prey on young birds when they fall from the nest. Over a hundred birds in one segment of the rookery might contain White Ibis, Wood Storks, Little Blue Herons, Tri-Colored Herons, Great Egrets, Snowy Egrets, Great Blue Herons, and Black-Crowned Night Herons. Flying above them, depending on the time of year, might be flocks of Red-Wing Blackbirds, Robins, Cedar Wax-Wings, Brown Pelicans, and Boat-tailed Grackles. Swimming around the moat are American Coots, colorful Wood Ducks, Pied-billed Grebes, and Common Moorhens. Harder to spot are the Northern Parulas, Blue-Gray Gnatcatchers, Carolina Chickadees, and Painted Buntings. An occasional Osprey, Northern Meadowlark, or Eastern Kingbird will fly past Ibis Pond.
Starr Pond, located just another few minutes up the road, is a haven for Killdeer, Great Blue Herons, Little Blue Herons, Yellow Legs, and untold numbers of White Ibis. A bench at the top of the hill provides a view of the mysterious gatherings. A spectacularly large crocodile, an estimated 12 feet long, typically rests in the middle of the birds. Visitors can hike around the entire pond to observe the families of birds up close. More adventurous hikers can advance further into the refuge. Pinckney Island National Wildlife Refuge is a wonderful sanctuary filled with diverse habitat that the entire family will enjoy, with each visit creating a special wildlife memory.
Jarvis Creek Park is a little oasis at the North End of the island. It offers a fresh water lake with a dock for catch and release fishing, 2 large grassy meadows, picnic pavilions, grills, a large playground, and restroom facilities. The area that was once a pasture for grazing cattle is now Jarvis Lake. Constructed as a storm water mitigation project, water is pumped into the lake and flows through the wetland area. A large specimen Live Oak tree is in the center of the complex, providing food, shelter, and nesting habitat for many nature species. The lake is surrounded by trees such as Red Maple, Bald Cypress, Black Gum, Sweet Gum, and Laurel Oak. A wide paved pathway, suitable for walking, running, or pushing a stroller, curves around the water. A wooden boardwalk crosses over the wetlands. Families will delight in the numerous rabbits that hide near the edge of the woods. Stretches of grass lawn with benches give visitors a chance to unwind and watch Red-tailed hawks, Osprey, and song birds soar over the park. An observation deck is the perfect opportunity to see big turtles, alligators, and fish. Pets are allowed on the premises and doggie clean-up bags are provided. It is easy to linger in this idyllic setting.
The Audubon Newhall Preserve was established in 1965 after Caroline Newhall persuaded Sea Pines developer Charles Fraser to protect the 50-acre tract from development. Located at the South End of the island on Palmetto Bay Road, the preserve was eventually deeded to the Hilton Head Island Audubon Society. The mission of the sanctuary, aside from protecting native vegetation and wildlife, was to teach about the ecology of a barrier island, and the plants and animals living there. Visitors can learn about several ecosystems, including Pine/Saw Palmetto Flatwoods, wetlands, pocosin (an Indian word for bog), and the pond. Four types of pine trees grow throughout Audubon Newhall Preserve, each dropping their pine needles to create a natural mulch trail beneath your feet. As you walk through the woods, a tangled mix of Saw Palmetto dominates the shrub layer, combined with Bracken Fern and Fetterbush. Over 50 plants and trees have been labeled by volunteers. Observation decks and benches are provided for relaxation. Several trails wind through thick woods, giving the impression of how the island must have looked before civilization. This little gem of a preserve will offer a chance to discover peace and tranquility through a quiet walk through the woods.
Wildlife is everywhere, and it costs nothing to walk or bike around the island. In the Forest Beach area, families can bike down North and South Forest Beach bike paths where it feels like you are in the jungle. Surrounded by Palmetto trees, oak trees, and 30 foot high bamboo, it is easy to spot birds, squirrels, and an occasional rabbit or raccoon. Head down Pope Avenue and stop at several bridges that overlook ponds. The turtles will swim toward you, small alligators will sun themselves on the bank, and wading birds will focus on fishing. Stop at Compass Rose Park for a break and a picnic lunch under the pavilion. A tribute to Charles Fraser, who founded Sea Pines, the park features a life-sized alligator statue with a brave Mr. Fraser standing next to the reptile. Continue biking to the Sea Pines Circle, bearing to the right on William Hilton Parkway, and then turn left down Arrow Road. A wonderful bike path next to the Motorcoach Resort has trees lining it on both sides. Deer, snakes, turtles, rabbits, and birds all enjoy the peace and quiet.
In Palmetto Dunes, rent a kayak and paddle through the 11 miles of connecting lagoons to see turtles, squirrels, birds, and fish. Families will be amazed at the wide beaches at low tide, and the treasures they will find. Walk or bike on the beach at low tide, until Port Royal Sound comes into view. Hermit crabs in beautiful seashells can be seen lumbering in the shallow water. Feel free to take photographs, but do not disturb any living creature. Several types of crabs can be seen floating along the edge of the ocean, and shorebirds are mining for their meals. Pick up seashells that do not contain critters, and only dried sand dollars. If you spot an overturned American Horseshoe Crab, please carefully turn it back over. They are harmless and hail from 445 million years ago...they are called "living fossils". These arthropods shed their shells, also called molting, 18 times before they reach adulthood. Guests can bike from Palmetto Dunes Plantation, travel underneath the highway, and emerge at Shelter Cove Marina. Take a cruise with the family to see Atlantic Bottlenose Dolphin, or try your hand at crabbing.
Hilton Head Island is a tropical paradise brimming with wildlife in the forests, lagoons, marshes, and ocean. Slow down your pace and look around, listen and let nature whisper to you, and allow your senses to connect with the abundant beauty that surrounds us.
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